IKAT
POCHAMPALLY IKAT is
renowned for chevrons, diamonds,
squares and geometrical flowers
and leaves which are popular motifs
created either in a single colour or
two colours or even a bright medley
of rich hues.
Ikat sarees became popular in the 1800s when
traders across the silk route often associated the
designs with power and affluence. Most artisans
who excel in creating this form of saree live in
Pochampally, which is a cluster of 80 villages
in Telangana. These villages are equipped with
traditional looms whose structural designs are
from centuries ago. With over 10,000 families
that participate in the weaving process, this
area is now known as Silk City. The secrets to
the trade are handed down from generation to
generation.
Ikats are normally of two types –single Ikat, where only the warp is tie-dyed and interwoven with the weft, which is either uncoloured or has only one basic colour; and double Ikats where both, warp and weft are tie-dyed and positioned in such a way that they work together to create the specific design with that signature bleed. Pochampally Ikat uses double ikat technique to create elegant geometric patterns that we have come to love. This fabric received the coveted Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2005.
What sets pochampally apart from
other fabrics is the fact that the warps
and weft threads are coloured or dyed
first and then added to the loom to
create the pattern on the fabric. In
India, Ikat is carried out with the help
of Batik and wax. This fabric is woven
both from silk and cotton yarn, each
fibre adding its own beauty to the weave
of the textile.
Pochampally silk is an exceptionally fine cloth with an elegant drape, fluid fall and rich lustre. Weaving families involved in creation of this textile, handle various aspects of the process from spinning to dyeing to marking to knotting and weaving. Hence, this craft provides employment to a whole family who has received the knowledge of this exceptional craft from their forefathers.